Domesticated Human Life in Niger

Daily life in Niger is quite a big change from life in Canada. We live a “small-town” existence in the capital “city” where livestock mixes with traffic and one is just as likely to be woken up by a rooster as by a loud radio. Simple, ordinary tasks seem to take longer here in Niger: from grocery shopping and cooking to doing laundry and using the internet.

Our daily chores often involve cooking the meals, sweeping up the sand that blows in through the windows, emptying the compost bucket into our compost pile, and washing dishes by hand. The dish water is never hot, but sometimes it might be lukewarm from being heated up by the afternoon sun. Having a life partner in this rural developing country where the pace of life is slower makes life a lot more exciting. I am very lucky to be married to a modern husband who joins me in the kitchen or who cooks up a delicious soup while I take a nap after a long day. He willingly helps around the house and washes the morning’s dishes so I come home to a clean kitchen (in exchange for a shoulder massage that night).

We use a gas stove/oven to cook, although heating up leftovers is a lot easier with the modern kitchen appliance called the microwave. It was apparently “almost brand new” when we bought it second-hand, but it is a much older and simpler model than we had in Canada. We also have a toaster, but we do miss our toaster oven.

Thank God we have an electric refrigerator, a brand new Eco-friendly one too! We certainly need it in this hot weather! A cold beverage with ice is much appreciated on a hot day. Tim has created several of his own tasty versions of iced tea. Sometimes he might brew a big pot of citrus tea with lemon. Other times he brews a mix of fruit teas and the flower of a native plant (called bissap or zima) which has a taste somewhat like that of cranberry juice. An inviting bowl of fresh fruit sitting out on the dining table just isn’t practical here in Niger. Fresh food goes bad in no time if it isn’t kept in the refrigerator. In the hottest of weather, bananas can’t stay out longer than a day or two before they have to be frozen or placed in the fridge. Unfortunately, an electric refrigerator isn’t very efficient when the power is cut for hours at a time!

Luckily, I don’t have to wash my clothes by hand (or very often that is) or use one of those old ringer washing machines I grew up with in Cameroon. We have an electric top-load washing machine conveniently placed in our bathroom. It’s an old clunker that makes a noisy racket and “jumps” around while on the spin cycle. Tim usually jams a chair in between the machine and the wall so that the machine won’t fall into the shower stall. The wash water is always “cold” since the sole hot water pipe goes to the shower and not to the washing machine. Whites never get perfectly white again, even with powerful detergent. Hanging the clothes on the line out back is the chore that sometimes makes me feel like a 1950s housewife…damp clothes on my shoulder, clothes pins in my hands and one in my mouth. All that is missing is a scarf on my head and a baby on my hip!

Grocery shopping, preparing food and cooking take a lot more time in Niger than they do in Canada. The first step is surviving the crowded market where I often buy fresh fruit, vegetables and eggs. It can be rather draining and frustrating to always have vendors and beggars flock around you even before you get out of your car! For a quieter shopping experience, I go to the Lebanese grocery store near our house which has a small market stall nearby. The second step is food preparation. The majority of our meals are made from fresh ingredients, except for canned goods. Processed food and imported packaged goods are highly taxed so we buy them only when we feel we need them. We bleach all our fruits and vegetables before eating or cooking them.

All our drinking water comes from a Katadyn water filter attached to the sink. The city water is drinkable, but it tends to have a high concentration of iron and other particulates in the pipes that aren’t good for the body over long periods of time, so we prefer drinking filtered water. We have learned to be patient with the filter as it often gets so clogged up with silt that water only comes out as a trickle. Tim faithfully scrubs the filter every week to keep the water flow at a decent rate. We keep several litres of water in our fridge or freezer since we probably go through about 3-5 litres of water a day! Stored water has come in handy a few times when water pressure to our upstairs apartment has been so low that we can’t get a drip from our tap for several hours! It’s a necessity of life here in the semi-desert to carry a bottle of ice-water wherever you go. I learned this lesson early-on after coming out of a 2-hour church service parched and feeling faint.

Making whole wheat muffins is an example of how complicated and challenging cooking can be here in Niger. First of all, I need to be sure I have all the ingredients. Eggs. Check that they are still good. If they float in bowl of water, they could have gone bad. Be cautious. Crack one egg at a time and double check the smell. Floating eggs may still be fine since the extreme heat here can dehydrate them quickly. Flour. White flour is easy to get, but I often like to make muffins that are half and half white and whole wheat flour. I can’t just go and find a package of whole wheat flour in the grocery store. No! I need to go to the market, ask directions to the area where grains and dried legumes are sold, and buy a heaping bowl of wheat. Processing isn’t included. Next, I must wash the wheat numerous times in a strainer to remove the dirt, bits of sticks and grass, other seeds and even pebbles! Then I need to lay it out in the sun, or in the oven, to dry. When the wheat is dry, I need to bring it to a grain mill in the market to grind it into flour. Afterwards, I sift the flour just to be sure all the pebbles are out, those that weren’t ground into dust in the mill. Finally, I have flour to make my muffins! But that’s not all…whole wheat flour tends to go rancid in the heat, and also attract insects unless it is kept in the freezer. Just one more thing that needs to find a place in the freezer.

It was my mom who passed on to me a love of cooking and baking. I’m no restaurant chef, as Tim can certainly attest to, but my meals are tasty and healthy. When the creative juices are stirring on a lazy Saturday morning, I like to cook/bake or try my hand at making new things. My first attempt at making a batch of yogourt was botched – I misread the recipe and added too much liquid for the amount of milk powder and starter. The second time, it turned out just right! Now Tim and I are enjoying yogourt on fresh fruit and cereal and in smoothies.

There are a number of affordable restaurants in Niamey with good food. Tim and I often frequent the Lebanese restaurant or the two Chinese restaurants all located in our neighbourhood. Be prepared to wait a bit. It’s normal to have to wait an hour for your food, and these aren’t even high-end European restaurants either! They tend to make food on an “as requested” basis. I often wonder if they need to go and catch the chicken first, then kill it, remove the feathers and then cook it! One time, one of the cooks came out of the kitchen in a panic. They had just run out of gas for the stove and they had to go find a replacement bottle. Tim and I have learned to entertain ourselves (e.g. card games, conversation, and reading materials) while waiting for food to arrive. If we’re hungry and feel like a quick and simple meal, we drive to our favorite Senegalese restaurant near the market. The menu is simple: your choice of sauce (meat, peanut, or vegetable) on rice. It’s served in a matter of minutes. We find the food tasty, filling and very affordable (a large plate of rice, meat sauce and a bottle of pop for only about 3 dollars)!

Besides cleaning the bathroom, one chore I hate doing is ironing. At one point, Tim and I were ironing almost all of our laundry to be certain no insects had laid their eggs in our clothes. Later, we learned from other missionaries that this precautionary measure is not needed here in such a hot and dry climate. Still, I have no patience when it comes to removing all the wrinkles from my cotton or rayon dresses and skirts. Nor do I want to be around a hot iron when it’s 38 degrees inside our apartment! Suddenly, I made the realization that “I” didn’t have to iron my own clothes. That could be the job of our house help! That’s one of the perks of living in Niger. We can actually afford to have a house help, and most expatriates do anyways. I don’t know how we could ever go back to cleaning our own place! Over the Christmas vacation we went back to cleaning our own apartment for two weeks since most of the time we were away traveling anyway. But things still get dirty, especially when you live in sandy Niger. Without a house help who was going to sweep all the dirt that accumulated and then wash the floor? Whose turn was it to clean the toilet and shower during these 2 weeks? Silence…hesitation…then I spoke up “Sure I’ll clean the house Tim, but how much are you going to pay me?”

Our Trip to Cameroon Over Easter

“Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Buses, Taxis, and Motorcycles…

CAMEROON!! (or Cameroun as they say in French).

March 15 – 29, 2008

Getting ready to go

It was hard for me to believe that this dream was finally a reality – we were actually on our way to Cameroon! My family had left Cameroon in 1986 when I was 10 years old. The last time I had set foot on my birth country was the summer of 1990 for a short 2-week visit with my parents and my brother, Glenn. That was almost 18 years ago!

Now I was going to visit Cameroon as an adult, this time with my husband, Tim, to show him where I grew up. A month earlier, we still didn’t have plane tickets or Visas for Cameroon. I was getting a bit nervous thinking that it might not happen. Our main problem was that Niger does not have a Cameroonian embassy. The nearest embassies are in Nigeria or in Senegal, and we weren’t about to make a special trip to any of those countries or send our documents in the mail! We weren’t sure what to do with so little time left. Even the Canadian embassy here in Niamey couldn’t offer us much help. Then, a surprising opportunity came available. There just so happened to be a Samaritan’s Purse training conference in Ethiopia that Tim was asked to attend only 2 weeks before our planned trip to Cameroon. Furthermore, there just so happened to be a Cameroonian embassy in Addis Ababa. So…in order to get our Visas for Cameroon (in central Africa), Tim had to fly from Niger (West Africa) all the way across to East Africa! Crazy, but it’s amazing how God works things out! The rest came together fine after that: the Air Ivoire tickets to Cameroon, the Visas for Benin, the bus tickets to Cotonou in Benin, bookings for accommodations during our travels.

The Incredible Journey :-)

Traveling itself was quite a ride as well, here's all the places we visited: Cotonou & Grand Popo (Benin); and in Cameroon: Douala, Yaounde, N'Gaoundere, Meiganga, and Garoua-Boulai.

Time was rather tight throughout our entire vacation, but we had a great 2 weeks none-the-less. Tim was delayed by 4 days coming back from Ethiopia & Mali, and so he had only 4 days (working!) back in Niamey before we headed out on this trip. Our vacation started very early Saturday morning after a very busy work week for both of us. We endured a very bumpy 20 hour bus ride to Cotonou.

We took a day of R & R at the beach in Grand Popo Benin to recover from the long bus ride. Ah – jumping in the ocean waves, so nice!

Photo of the fishing boat we saw regularly at the beach, the "Philosopher's boat" with wise sayings on the side.

Then we drove back to Cotonou to catch our flight. Only hours before we were supposed to be checking in at the airport, we got stuck in our first heavy rain in months. We had gone to an internet café and to this really delicious vegetarian restaurant when it started to pour. Honestly, I was enjoying the rain and would have loved to jump in the huge puddle in the middle of the street, but I wasn’t smiling when later I had to pick my way through the dirty water in search of a taxi. Finding a car taxi in Cotonou isn’t so easy since moto taxis, called zims, are more common. But even zims were hard to flag down in the rain! We walked half way back to the SIM guesthouse when we finally hailed a zim. We were soggy and sticky, but there was no time for a shower before we had to catch the plane. As it turned out, our flight was delayed until the next morning so we spent an extra night in Cotonou. We arrived at a vacant airport the next morning at 5:00am for our 7:30am flight. The only people awake were some men washing the floors. Security guards lay sleeping at their desks; the 24 hour drug store was closed but the owner lay sleeping behind the counter; the sound of snoring came from an office nearby. We waited for an hour and a half for anyone to appear, only to learn that the flight would be delayed until 11am. The Cotonou airport is rather small, and there was no AC since the electricity was cut all morning. So we sat in one of the two stuffy waiting rooms all morning. The plane from Abidjan didn’t come until 1pm, and we didn’t take off until 1:45pm! Due to technical problems with the plane in Abidjan, Air Ivoire had to borrow a plane from Air Méditerranéen. Despite, all the waiting, the flight to Douala (the large port of Cameroon) only took 1 ½ hours.

Cameroon at Last!

Our first impressions flying over Douala were: “Wow, it’s really GREEN down there! Look at all the thick forest and lush vegetation!” What a welcome change from dry, sandy semi-arid desert (called the Sahel region) where we live in Niamey. The southern part of Cameroon is primarily tropical rainforest. What a feast for the eyes!

We were greeted in Douala by Daniel Simeu, the father of our friend Bélise who attends the same church we do in Niamey. I was immediately drawn to his big smile. Considering we had to phone him three times to change the pick-up time and the fact that he had to take a day off work to be available for our arrival, he cheerfully met us at the airport with a bouquet of tropical flowers for me. He generously took care of us, putting us up in a rustic inn a block away from his house, showing us around Douala that evening in the driving rain during a power outage, introducing us to his family, and delivering us early the next morning to the bus station.

Yaoundé the capital!

On our way out of Douala, we came upon a three-vehicle accident involving two large trailer trucks and a bus. No worries, though. We had been advised that this was one of the best business class coach lines commuting between Douala and Yaoundé!

The curvy, uphill road was paved from the coast to the capital city, Yaoundé, located at high altitude, surrounded by beautiful hills and having a very pleasant climate. Along the way, we passed by small farms, lush forest and rusted out car wrecks at what seemed like break-neck speed.

We were met at the Yaoundé bus station by Pastor Samuel Frouisou, a (tall!) man who spent a week at our place in Ottawa a number of years ago. See photo at left. He took us to his office, located conveniently a 5-min walk to the train station, where we dropped our bags. Then we spent almost an hour waiting in line to get a train ticket for the evening train. We were only able to get 2 seats in first class rather than a double sleeper car. (Once we were on the train, we were able to upgrade to a 4-person sleeper.)

Pastor Frouisou arranged for a driver to take us around Yaoundé during the afternoon. Issa took us up Mount Fébé to get a good view of the city from a very ritzy hotel at the top. Picture on the right taken in Yaounde.

Yaounde is on a plateau and is mountainous, making for a great climate!The presidential palace was nearby, and an expensive-looking golf course was directly below us. Rainy season had already started a couple weeks earlier than normal in the south of Cameroon. Heavy late afternoon downpours are normal. Fortunately, the rain abated by the time we had to walk to the train station.

African Train

From Yaounde we took the overnight train to N'Gaoundere in the north, 16 hours train each way.

We sat in our assigned seats in first class until sometime after the train started moving (after an hour delay). First class was okay with its padded seats, but it was run down and dirty. If this is 1^st class, I wonder what economy class is like! We were entertained (annoyed) by traveling salesmen who were selling everything from ginseng miracle products, to magazines, CDs and snacks/drinks. Luckily, we were able to move to a quieter 4-person sleeper early on in the trip. Horizontal sleep was much appreciated, even if the cabin was rather stuffy.

It was fun being a kid again and sleeping on the top bunk, but eating meals from a tray and drinking tea was a bit of a challenge! I wasn’t too impressed with the bathrooms on the trains. Stinky. Sticky. Smelly. We were a little more comfortable on our return trip a week later. We were able to reserve a 2-person sleeper which had its own sink and running water (although still not drinkable). Unfortunately, I still had to deal with stinky toilets!

One thing I enjoyed about the 16-hour train ride was watching the changing geography: from lush rainforests to grassy savanna pocketed by forested river valleys. The grasslands we passed looked so much like a wildlife reserve that we half expected to see antelopes or lions and giraffes in the distance! No such luck. Furthermore, Tim and I were rather surprised to see so much grassy bush land yet very little livestock grazing on the abundant grass. In Niger you see cows and goats everywhere, even in the most remote places.

I also enjoyed watching the vendors at the various stops along the way selling food through the windows to passengers. It appears that the entire community comes out to watch when the train passes through town! It’s great business for them. You could buy water, bananas, mangoes, pineapples, peanuts, roasted pumpkin seeds, mandarins, doughnut holes (beignets), wild honey in bottles, dried fish, baguettes, ground fish wrapped in banana leaves (pistache) and cassava starch wrapped in banana leaves (baton de manioc). Men, women and children learn early on how to balance a load on their heads. One little girl amazed me at how she was able to balance a 1 ½ litre bottle of water perfectly on her head!

Bottle, Bottle!
One picture will forever remain etched in my mind. As the train slowed down to approach villages, we could see children from our window children who were running exciting alongside the train yelling “bouteille” (bottle) or “Tangui vides”. They were asking for passengers to throw them their empty plastic water bottles. You could see from their faces that it was a thrill to have someone chuck a bottle their way, like receiving a gift. Empty bottles are valuable in Africa and can be reused and refilled to sell almost anything (honey, nuts, oil, juice). When a passenger would throw an empty bottle out the window, all the children would excitedly run towards it. Some children worked together and gathered many bottles. Other children preferred to stand off on their own in hopes of being the lucky winner of their own bottle. I particularly remember this one boy off on his own. His arms were wide open and he had an expectant smile on his face that would melt your heart. To think that a water bottle I had no more use for and could easily replace could bring such joy to the life of a child!

Familiar Faces and Places

I could tell we had arrived at the outskirts of N’Gaoundéré when I saw the familiar chain of hills and one hill in particular with a large rock balanced on top that gives the town its name.

In the local language, N’Gaoundéré means “Belly button” because the chain of hills looks like a person lying on their back with an “outy” bellybutton protruding from their stomach.

This photo with the moon taken where we attended a Easter morning sunrise church service with the English Cameroon church there.

Jim Noss met us at the station and drove us to the mission station where we met his wife, Karen. Jim and Karen are long time missionary friends of our family who will be retiring this summer. Karen, our amazing hostess, set us up in a comfortable guesthouse just next door and served us most of our evening meals.

It was fun telling stories around the dinner table of our years together in Cameroon. Things looked pretty much how I remembered them, except for a few things (a wall around the compound, a large new “Millenium” church, larger trees, and some rundown buildings). Of course, I had many memories to share with Tim at every turn as we walked around and visited the house we lived in for 2 years, the hospital my father worked at and other buildings. We also loved all the flowering trees on the mission station! Despite it still being dry season in N’Gaoundéré (the rains had not yet arrived), it was still much greener than we are used to in Niger!

We spent 5 days in N’Gaoundéré. Tim and I visited two families who were friends of my family (Salatou Paul, Etienne and Jeanne Fomgbami). One afternoon, we went exploring the paths behind the station which led us past people’s vegetable fields and several active soccer games. We also went hiking in the hills behind the station with some of the doctors (Tim and Wen Bartholomew) and medical students who were living there.

Photo of us from up top of Ngoundere mountain, with the town in the background.

One of the "cool" adventures we had was visiting and jumping into the crater lake. On Saturday, a number of us drove out to the large, deep crater lake called Lac Mbalang where the Norwegian missionaries have a little cottage for a picnic.

As a kid, I remember swimming from a raft in the middle of this lake on special outings. Tim and I joined Jim and two others (Dr. Jim and Marianne Menges) on a hike around the rim of the lake.

I couldn’t resist the cool, blue water. So we took a motor boat out to the middle of the lake for a swim. Refreshing! I felt like I was back in Ontario swimming in a cool lake at the cottage!

Some crazy prickly trees out there ...




And guavas too! Christine could not resist, Tim caught her in the act...

- and we were not alone

Easter morning found us at the base of “Bellybutton Mountain” for a sunrise Easter service with the English-speaking Lutheran congregation (FYI, Joseph Barya is the pastor at the moment). Photo of Christine sitting with the congregation at the outdoor service.

Later that day, Tim and I climbed and conquered “Bellybutton Mountain” to gain a beautiful view. Sunday evening, we attended a concert of the high school choir “Gospel Singers” at the new church.

I’m Home!

Monday morning, Tim and I drove the 300 or so kilometers to my hometown of Garoua-Boulai (GB).

A missionary family needed us to drive their truck down to GB so that saved us having to take a public bus. We left at 7:30am, had a 2 ½ hour stop at Meiganga to visit my friend and didn’t arrive in GB until 5:30pm! The roads were pretty rough all the way: very bad potholes from N’Gaoundéré to Meiganga, none-stop washboards from Meiganga to GB. Although many vehicles chose to pass us along the way, Tim drove carefully, for which I am very thankful.

We were fortunate to be offered a truck to drive; unfortunate to get a flat tire! Tim was covered in red dirt after changing the tire. It gets everywhere!

In Meiganga, we visited my best childhood friend, Anne Yadji, and her family.

Life is difficult in Africa. Anne has lost her father, 3 brothers and a sister. Her two sons and only daughter all died before the age of 2. The only remaining members of her family are her mother (solid as an oak), one sister and two brothers. It was a short, yet special visit with Anne.

Excitement was mounting in me as we got closer to my hometown. When we crossed the Lom River, I knew we were almost there. The scenery had changed and become more tropical and lush: from the dry and hilly plateau of N’Gaoundéré to the flat grassland of Meiganga to the lush hills closer to GB.

Photo of us below on a bridge over the Lom river. It's tropical there!It had been cloudy and threatening rain all day, and was starting to rain when we arrived.

At GB, we settled into our guesthouse (which we shared with the noisy bats in the attic) and then headed over to have supper with Dr. Solofou and his wife Joely. Gado, another childhood friend, also joined us for supper.

Walking back to our guesthouse that evening, I felt like I had never left Cameroon, like I was walking home after a movie night at the dorm. In the dark, everything looked the same. The curves in the road felt the same. The trees lining the road were the same, even though many had grown taller over the years. Photo on right side is the Jacobsen family house.

In the daylight, I noticed that some trees that I had remembered so well were now gone, but most were just taller and showing their age.

The avocado tree that Glenn planted from a seed was still beside our house (photo below). Alas - the tree is too big for the photo!

The frangipani trees were blooming. The bark looked well-loved from years of kids climbing on their branches. My favourite guava trees behind the dorm had long ago been cut down. Gado helped Tim and me find the only remaining rubber tree planted on the station where we kids used to gather the sap to make little bouncy rubber balls. The towering kapok tree that used to be at the centre of the station had been cut down since it was dangerously close to several houses. Fortunately, there still remains one healthy kapok tree with fruit pods that will provide cotton fuzz and little wooden boats for kids to play with for years to come. :-)

It was a rather sad for me to notice many of the buildings on the station looking more run down than I had remembered them. It felt rather empty, not like I remembered when the station was bustling with missionary activity. It’s harder to keep things maintained now that the local church has been handed over that responsibility due to fewer missionaries in recent years. Our house where we lived for so many years is showing its age, but at least it’s still standing firm. I was happy, though, to see that my 4-room school, which was closed about 10 years ago, is now being used by the Bible School. They had added another room to house a library. The junglegym structure is still holding strong, but the swing set is lacking swings. The dormitory is used by the Cameroon church for meetings and conferences, and the screened in porch is being used as a sewing school for illiterate girls. The pool looked rather sad with no water in it. The volleyball court is now being used to dry cassava flour! The large water tower which was built next to our house in 1986 to provide city water is no longer functioning (apparently it never did work). It now has a cell phone tower on top of it. Another company built a tower nearby too. Different times, different needs, different purposes.

Our time in GB was way too short. We caught a ride back to N’Gaoundéré that afternoon with Dr. Salofou and his wife who were planning on going to the city for business. Tim and I had only the morning to walk around, take pictures, and meet friends who knew me or my family. Gado was our “guide” and “interpreter” of memories.

We met his older sister, Ina, in the market and he introduced us to many others like Pauline, who babysat Glenn and me and had many funny stories to tell. He also brought us to his house and showed us the dirt mounds where family members were buried. Just this past January, his youngest baby daughter, Christine, (named after me) died from eating improperly prepared cassava that still had traces of cyanide in it (normally found in the variety of cassava grown in this region but removed through soaking the root in water for a few days). Disease, poor nutrition, AIDS and death are so familiar to many in Africa.

The Hospital

Dr. Salofou gave us a nice tour of the hospital where my father worked for many years and where I was born! Photo of Christine and Gado (Glenn's friend) in the Lutheran mission hospital, standing by the mural painting, painted by an anthropologist in 1980 when they were kids.

There were only 2 older nurses’ aides who had known and worked with my dad. Dad sure left such a wonderful legacy and witness of Christ’s love! I felt honoured to have such a rich heritage. Everywhere we went, whether in the hospital or the market, people remembered my father’s name. Some Fulani women were sitting in the maternity hall, and when they heard that I was Dr. Jacobsen’s daughter, their ears perked up and they started chatting amongst themselves and smiling at me. Insufficient funding is making it hard for the church-run hospital to provide the quality of care that used to be available.

The orphanage is now being used as a nutrition centre where severely malnourished children and adults live for a month and are provided a special diet and basic classes in nutrition. Since GB is a boarder town, it has received many refugees from neighbouring Central African Republic where there have been rebel attacks on villages in the recent months. The nutrition centre has seen a rise in cases of malnutrition with the influx of refugees. Thankfully, those who are sent to the nutrition centre often see great improvement after the month-long program. I smile when I think back to the beautiful faces of the Fulani women sitting on mats outside the centre playing with their happy little babies.

Photo of Christine , Gado, and Gado's sister in the GB market.

Changes

Much has changed in the 24 years since I lived in Garoua-Boulai. It is no longer a little town of 10 000, but has expanded in all directions. The main road running through town is now paved and runs all the way to the next biggest town of Bertoua, which is now only a 3-hour drive. (Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like the road from GB to N’Gaoundéré will be paved anytime in the near future.) The prominent cement round-about at the main intersection gives the town an air of importance! It even has a hotel with a restaurant, most likely catering to the influx of aid-workers in the area. City-wide electricity has been one of the biggest changes. There is more of a night-life now. It also means that morning sleep is now interrupted by the call to prayer since the local mosques now have microphones that can now be heard even as far as the mission station! There is an internet café, and TVs can be found in almost every eatery. And, the (one and only) gas station now has electric pumps rather than manual pumps!

Return to Reality

The 3-day return trip to Niger went a lot smoother than our trip to Cameroon. No major delays or problems. The train ride was a bit noisy – we heard the next morning that the guards had caught a thief and they were beating him up all night, and keeping him in the toilet room.

Our two week vacation went by too fast. The time was too short to spend very long with any one person or family. Although I didn't feel like I came with much to offer or many material gifts, people thanked me over and over again for the gift of friendship that our family had maintained over the years. Their words to us were “Thank you for remembering us here in Cameroon after all these years. Thank you for not forgetting us. Thank you for visiting us.” Tim and I were so well taken care of during our time in Cameroon, thanks to the generosity and hospitality of the many friends we met along the way. It was a dream come true to go back to Cameroon as an adult with Tim. I was not ready to wake up. It wasn’t until our bumpy bus ride from Benin to Niger that I really began to realize that we were now entering the Sahel. From lush forests and green grass to sand and stunted trees with thorns and little leaves. Welcome to Niger, a place where life holds on hopefully to every little blessing and promise…and…thrives. Welcome to the garden where I am currently planted and learning to bloom. The Gardener has not forgotten about his oasis in Niger. The rains are coming soon.

Favourite Food:

Plantain everywhere! One of our first snacks in Douala was roasted plantain from a street vendor. Mmmmm. Plantain is served either fried like French fries or boiled like a potato at almost every meal in Cameroun. We took advantage of this abundance. Delicious!

Food for the Adventurous:

In Yaoundé, while waiting for Pastor Frouisou, we had a late breakfast/brunch at a little kiosk at the side of the road. Fish in tomato sauce (with the head still on) and bread for dipping. Now doesn’t that sound appetizing?

On the way back Tim ate a hot plate of crocodile! There are very unusual bones in a plate of crocodile. Tasty and worth trying again!

On the train to N’Gaoundéré, I was looking for something to eat with our baguette. I asked a vendor from the train window about a little package wrapped in banana leaves. It looked like something I had eaten as a kid. I was hoping it was pound cassava leaves with spices. He called it “pistache”. Hmmm. Sounds kind of like pistachios. “Should be good,” I thought. Well, it ended up being fish pate with bones and all. Even though Tim and I enjoy eating fish, one bite of this was enough for both of us!

Lessons learned:

In Douala, a power outage means no water from the taps.

It’s good to check your tires often while driving.

Meiganga does not have tonic soda.

What to do? No Public Phone Booths.
No need to have public phone booths when you have “call boxes” at almost every street corner. A call box is a small open booth/kiosk where you can borrow a cell phone to make a call for a small fee. You can even find call boxes in small towns since many places now have cell phone reception.

Favourite Roadside Attraction:

Little knee-high mud termite mounds in the shape of toad stools. Cute! You could see large “cities” of these toad stool homes in the fields at the side of the road. Some of the termite mounds had 2 “mushroom caps” on one stalk: maybe an upstairs suite for the in-laws! J

Talking about mushroom caps, the rainy season happens to be the start of mushroom picking season. As we were driving to and from GB, we passed by a couple roadside kiosks where they were selling large mushroom caps the side of a dinner plate! And when you buy the monstrous mushroom, you don’t just get the top, you also get a foot or more of the root! Imagine how many omelets or bowls of soup you could make with it!

Faces I will Never Forget:

Word got out quickly that Dr. Jacobsen’s daughter was in town. On our last day in N’Gaoundéré, a Fulani woman named Mariama came looking for me. Her face and arms were all covered in scars, but she beamed with joy and hugged me like a long lost daughter. She told me her story. Many years ago she had fallen into the fire and had received severe burns all over her body. She was brought to the GB hospital where my father treated her and gave her skin grafts to cover the opened wounds. She was now completely healed, and even more exciting was that she had found Jesus as her Healer and Saviour. She had made the big jump from Islam and was beaming with an indescribable joy. Before we departed, she took my hands in hers and prayed a passionate prayer.

Planes, Trains, Buses, Motorcycles, and Trucks!

• Flying 3 hours; Waiting in airports: 11 hours
  
• bus: 45 hours
• Train:32 hours
• Truck: 13 hours (8 driving); Motorcycle: 1 hour
  

Battle of the bugs

News from the battle front - African bugs - mosquitos actually...

Several things can keep us from sleeping at night, namely high temperatures, farm animals (roosters, goats...), the neighbourhood mosque, dogs howling over intruders, wind storms, but surely the worstof all are ...

Most every living organism agrees, except for possibly dragonflies and bats, that mosquitoes are annoying little creatures that somehow passed through careful inspection when God announced at creation that “It was good”. These blood-thirsty beasts must have sided with the devil early on, for they are nothing but evil incarnate with 2 wings, 6 legs and a razor-sharp siphon for a mouth! Their sole purpose is to torment any warm-blooded organism in an attempt to suck the life-blood out of it. These skilled demons have continued their moral decline and corrupt lifestyle over the centuries by making unwise alliances with equally evil elements of The Fall called “viruses”. Together, they collaborate to pursue their own selfish interests while making life miserable for warm-blooded organisms and spreading diseases such as West Nile virus, Dengue Fever, Japanese Encephalitis, and Malaria.

The mosquitoes in Niger are even more irritating and elusive than those of Canada. Whereas Canadian mosquitoes like the warm spots near the neck and the backs of the knees, Nigerien mosquitoes tend to go for the ankles, although they will bite any exposed skin available. Nigerien mosquitoes have a way of gorging on your blood without you even feeling a sting. It isn’t until they are flying away or are long gone that you notice an intense itchy sensation. At night while in bed, they fly around your head and emit a very high pitched hum, higher than the low drone of Canadian mosquitoes. It reminds me of a small dentist’s drill. The sound seems to surround you from all different directions so that sometimes it sounds like the hum might be coming from within your head! Unlike the mosquitoes in Canada that are large and rather clumsy, the mosquitoes in Niger are small and react quickly when they sense they are being pursued.

One strategy the mosquitoes use to evade capture is to drop instantly out of eyesight and fly low to the floor. Another strategy is to fly next to a dark or busy background where they get “lost” in the motif, such as near a bookshelf or a bedspread. The only sure way of killing mosquitoes is to spray the house with an insecticide before you go to bed. I prefer not to use this method since the intoxicating fumes will no doubt give me cancer one day. Tim and I have found using a fly swatter is healthier than spraying and more effective than using your hands, since often the mosquitoes fly right through your fingers! Frantically waving the flyswatter in the air may kill the mosquito, but usually your best bet is to patiently wait for it to land on the wall. Our bedroom wall has black spots in numerous places as testaments to battles waged and won!

The pesky insects hover eagerly at our door, like our hungry adopted cat, waiting for an opportunity to sneak in when the door opens. We have screens on our windows to keep the mosquitoes out, although for several months a few screens had rips in them, allowing free access to mosquitoes and moths. Recently, our apartment complex was redone with new screens having finer mesh that is supposed to keep even the smallest of insects out. That was a big improvement. Unfortunately, the daily battle with mosquitoes isn’t over. So before we go to bed each night, Tim and I scan the room for mosquitoes. We check behind the curtains, in the corners, on the ceiling, and under the folds of the sheets. No mosquito must remain alive! How miserable a night for Tim and me if a mosquito escapes our flyswatter! When we have peacefully fallen asleep, it will come out of hiding, find our warm bodies and start hovering around our heads with that annoying high-pitched hum. Who will deliver me from my misery at 3 in the morning? “Timmmmm, it’s your turn to wake up and kill the darn mosquito.”

Class Camping Trip Niger River

February 26 and 27

It seems to be turning into a tradition for the grade 5/6 class to go on a yearly camping trip. I was more than eager to continue this tradition, to the delight of my students. I wanted to give each student the opportunity to experience the adventure of camping in Niger and the thrill of being immersed in God’s amazing creation. And of course, the outdoor enthusiast and camper in me wouldn’t pass off this opportunity!

There would, no doubt, be an educational component to the camping trip. We had just finished reading a novel about a boy who was very knowledgeable about surviving outdoors. Many of the students were inspired by this story and were interested in learning some camping skills, such as making a fire and setting up a tent. In science, we were studying about space and our solar system. This camping trip would give the students the chance to study the moon and the constellations at night, hopefully with a telescope or binoculars. In social studies, we had been learning about famous explorers of the past and present. Before and during the trip, we would practice using navigational instruments similar to what some explorers used, such as a compass, an astrolabe/quadrant, and a sundial.

“Be prepared!” The Girl and Boy Scout motto. We spent two weeks preparing for the 24-hour campout! Deciding the food, making a packing list, learning about fire safety and fire building, learning how to set-up and take down a tent, studying constellation charts…the list goes on! The students were divided into 3 teams of 4. Each team would be responsible for planning a game for the trip, presenting a campfire skit or story, leading a few songs at the campfire, and helping cook or clean-up. Teamwork, leadership, accountability. These are qualities I was trying to develop in my students.

The day we were waiting for dawned hazy and hot! So much for trying to avoid camping in the hot season! Fortunately, the nights are still cooling off nicely, so we slept quite comfortably. We managed to pack all our camping gear (backpacks, sleeping bags, pillows, tents, food and water coolers, guitar, telescope, firewood) and 12 students and 4 adults into two land rovers!

We camped upstream along the Niger River on a piece of property that the school director rents along with a couple of other families. The small riverfront property is enclosed with a grass fence, contains a round hut for storage and a nicely designed latrine, and has four large mango trees growing on it.

The first thing we did upon our arrival was head straight for the shade of the mango trees. Seconds later, the kids were up the mango trees and hanging from the leafy branches! After setting up the tents, we settled down to the game that quickly became the card game of the trip: “Apples to Apples”.

"What time is it Mrs. Mattimoe?”

I don’t know, Lachlan. Why don’t we check on the sundial?”

Sure!”
Make sure the sundial is pointing north.

"Approximately what time does it indicate”

Wow, it’s already about 4:30pm!”

Then it must be time for the “Saturn’s Rings” team to lead us in a scavenger hunt.”

After the scavenger hunt, we did the fire-building competition that the students had been gearing up for all week. The objectives were straight forward: gather the wood needed to build a small fire, use only 2 matches to light the fire, get a small can of soapy water to boil over. This activity was aflame in creative chaos resourceful problem solving as each team struggled with similar problems: a broken match, the wind blew out the match, thorny branches, the string on the can got burned and the can of water spilled.

One team tried persistently, although unsuccessfully, to light the fire using a magnifying lens. Another team learned through trial and error how to keep their fire going without smothering it.

How fitting that the “Super Survivor’s” team were the winners of the fire competition. Coincidently, they were also in charge of making the fires for our supper. Hotdogs accompanied with cooked veggies in tinfoil.

I was really impressed by how well my students played and worked together. There was little arguing during the games, and each team willingly took their turn to cook or clean up. The aptly named “Bubble Buster” team was certainly the most cheerful group of dish washers!

The stars weren’t as bright as I had seen only a couple weeks earlier in a village. The sky was a bit hazy, mostly due to the harmatan (sand) in the air. Even so, we did manage to spot Orion and the Big Dipper. The North Star was too low on the horizon for us to see it very clearly, so we didn’t get to try out our “homemade” astrolabes to calculate our latitude. It was also rather disappointing that we never had a chance to use the telescope that Mr. Golde had set up for us to observe the moon. The moon was waxing after the full moon and lunar eclipse a week earlier. It didn’t appear in the sky until much later in the night.

After a number of popular evening running games, we gorged ourselves on roasted marshmallows, Smores, and banana boats (banana with chocolate chips and marshmallows and wrapped in tinfoil for the fire). The campfire program followed, and lasted until close to midnight! All of us were tired and by 12:30am, we were all drifting off to sleep to the tune of croaking frogs and buzzing crickets.

Favorite Campfire Memories

Funniest skit: “Bring me my royal papers!”

Silliest song: “Making Melodies in my Heart”

Most creative new song lyrics: “If I were a Firefly”

Scariest moment: Hearing the grunt of a hippo nearby

Breakfast was pretty fancy for a campout! We had fresh fruit, plenty of home-made muffins and a never-ending pile of warm French toast! Mr. Bliss and Shelley had 2 pans going on the fire pit. Christina and I mastered the art of cooking over a buddy burner (upside-down can with an opening for a small fire under it). Those who preferred a fried egg were invited to come and cook it themselves.

After a time of devotions, we broke camp and started to pack up.

Meanwhile,

Mr. Bliss was taking three students at a time out in his canoe to get a look at the hippos on a nearby sandbar. It was reassuring to learn that even though the hippo’s grunting sounded close by the previous night, it was probably several hundred metres out past the island of grazing cows.

We arrived back at school tired, thirsty and hungry, but full of great stories to share with our friends and family. The students and I have all agreed that it takes too much effort to organize a camping trip for just 1 night. Next year, we would suggest a 2-night camping trip!

THE END →

Learning to Bake in Africa

I tried baking pumpkin/squash during our first month in Niger. What an adventure! It took about 1 ½ hours to bake it! Here are the instructions. Who knows when you just might need to use a gas oven....during the next dump of snow or ice or a province-wide power shortage.

1. First of all, try to locate where to light the burner. Lift up the metal cover at the bottom of the oven. Turn on the gas. Light the burner with a long gas BBQ lighter. Replace the cover. Don’t expect to get access to the burner at any other time during the baking process! Once the oven is lit, keep it lit since you don’t want to be fiddling with a hot element later on.

2. The dial shows only a picture of a “large flame” or “small flame”. Somewhere between the two is “medium flame”. Translated, that means: “Hot oven”, “Not so hot oven” or “Somewhere in-between”. There are no temperatures on the dial.

3. You will need an oven thermometer if you want to keep track of the temperature, especially for baking desserts. A thermometer is also useful to see if the oven is losing heat and needs more flame.

4. Without a thermometer at your disposal, use your nose to check for smoke or burning! Use a fork to check the squash for “doneness” and use your eyes to look for browning or burning spots.

5. CAUTION: The entire oven (door, dials) gets very hot while the oven is on. Use thick oven mitts for safety.

6. Reminder: There is no door handle. Open the oven from the edges. Be careful not to slam it closed.

7. Unless you want a sauna in an already hot and poorly ventilated kitchen and you don’t mind emptying your gas bottle, you might want to forgo using the oven and find an alternative method (e.g. steaming or boiling on the stovetop ) to cook your food in the future.

8. Remember: there is no microwave in your apartment. All leftovers have to be reheated on the stove.

Happy baking! :-)

Since my first experience, I have cooked squash two other times. The second time I steamed it. It was okay, but not as flavorful as using the oven. The third time I tried the oven again. Success with less frustration this time! Our guests enjoyed my cinnamon-flavoured specialty.

Postscript: I thought you might be interested in reading about my first experiences with our gas oven. Since then, I have made banana bread/cake/muffins, apple-cinnamon muffins, pumpkin muffins, and an egg casserole in the oven. We bought a used microwave in December which has proven to a big lifesaver and added to the convenience of re-heating leftovers. Thanks also to my mom for sending us an oven thermometer in a care package. :-)

Ethiopia - different than you think

Hi there - March has been an intense travel month for me (Tim), as with travels to Ethiopia and Cameroon (and Mali and Benin). News on on the east first...

Ethiopia, East Africa – I have arrived in the capital city Addis Ababa, it is March 1.

I'm here to participate in a training conference with Samaritan's Purse .

The SP staff in Ethiopia are quite friendly and cheery (photo on right - training class). They have some programs similar to Niger, they also have a large HIV/AIDS awareness program (called MET and Prescription for Hope). Their project sites are quite far off, some are more than 10 hours driving from Addis. As a result they do have a staffed remote office in the south Somali province.

But - rather than bore you with too much work stuff I'll share about my adventures. As flights within Africa are not so frequent or convenient, it was convenient for me to have some extra days to explore Ethiopia a bit - very nice!

FOOD - now that I have your attention. An important part of any country, and so much so in a country like Ethiopia. Ethiopia has a very unique traditional food not found anywhere else on the globe and it is quite delicious. The meal is comunual, buffet style, and consists of many sauces which are scooped up by a chunk of dough called “Injera”. Traditionally Injera is a very large pizza-like dough baked over a pit fire, but in the city people often make it in pans and then make rolls of the dough (As you can see in the photo). The dough is moist and flexible and fairly strong, so one tears a piece off the roll or platter, and use the piece of dough like a mitt to scoop sauce. I must admit that Injeri can only be eaten with your hands, fork and knife just wouldn’t make sense. I ate many different sauces, usually I have no idea what I’m eating. I know that one sauce was raw meat (ground beef), I didn’t eat much of this. A typical good restaurant will have more than 20 different sauces.

Surprise is a word that comes to mind for visitors to this city. In some ways as you look around Addis you might think you are in a US city, in an African-American neighbourhood. The capital is well developed, however there are malnutrition and many other needs in the rural majority of the country.

Even so - living in Addis is quite unlike the US due to its distinctive culture and religion, and as well as you look deeper you find an eclectic mix of African and Western life going on. From my hotel room window, I took the photo of this cathedral in the distance. As it is the Easter lenten season, there are throngs of Ethiopian Coptic Christians at the churchs everyday, as you can see in the photo. Notice the white garments. This was a regular workday morning.

Addis Ababa (which means “New Flower”) is a flowering city, prosperous and modern, good paved roads with much traffic, and a substantial availability of goods and services. You can find many modern things here including smog :-)

Notice the photo of the food and the "fasting" sign. PUZZLED? READ on.

March 2 is a significant day and time of the year for Ethiopia. For starters, they celebrate the Adwa Victory, which was their victory in defeating the Italians. Ethiopia is the only country in Africa that was not colonized, and was for a few years occupied by Italy in the region now called Eritrea.
The other thing kicked off in this country is the Christian Coptic lenten fast, which is a 40 day fast following up to Easter (Orthodox date), and is taken quite seriously and performed by a large proportion of the population, basically most Coptic Christians.

This food photo above has a good closeup of the injera dough, the beige rolls at the bottom. The “fast” is actually a vegan diet, an abstention from meat of all kinds and all dairy. It is significant enough that many restaurants immediately stop offering meat or dairy dishes in their menu. Alternatively restaurants will separate “fasting” food from “non-fasting” food, as is the case here. Of course fasting generally means to abstain from eating food, so the idea of "fasting food" is an oxymoron. Personally I enjoy the wide variety of tasty healthy vegetable sauces and foods that you find everywhere.

Coffee connoisseurs know well that Ethiopia is highly sough out for its coffee. And no less so in Ethiopia which has well entrenched coffee traditions. In the photo I'm in the restaurant next to the lady taking care of making coffee for all the patrons, as a meal normally is followed by coffee.

In the local coffee shop, the coffee menu includes “fasting hot beverages”, meaning coffee drinks with non-dairy milk substitutes like soy. Effectively a Soy cappuccino is called a fasting cappuccino. Interesting.

I took 2 photos which also would raise some eyebrows on some people –
One is of a throne seat near the front of the church, a special large luxurious chair reserved for the king or honored guest.

Apparently many of the Coptic churches have such throne chairs. The 2^nd photo is of the church ceiling fresco, on the right side you see Christ on the cross and on the left adjoining it a picture showing a troop of armed soldiers saluting the King. For Anabaptists this association with the military would be quite disturbing, alas the reformation.

Mountains, exploring - On Thursday we had the great opportunity to visit the Ethiopian country side, and some beautiful natural scenery. I took a lot of photos!
Ethiopia is quite mountainous, and Addis Ababa is on a high plateau, one of the highest cities in the world. As a result the weather is actually cool and comfortable (a bit chilly at night). I'm standing here with two of our SP colleagues, at the edge of a cliff.

While we were sitting having lunch, a large herd of monkeys came down the mountain side and walked in front of us, about a 100 monkeys, at a safe distance from us. My photo on the right was fully zoomed.

We went up a plateau to visit two famous monasteries. One is active with pilgrims attending everyday during the lent period.

We were allowed to visit, with a guide, during the mass service, and so I have some photos inside while people are praying. The participants there are on the floor, either sitting or kneeling in prayer, head to the floor.

The church has a replica of the Old Testament Ark that Moses had. Ethiopians have a strange fascination with things like that, a leader in the church said that all the Coptic churches in Ethiopia have an Ark, they wouldn’t be a church without it.

A guide brought us up a steep hike into the mountains, where we encountered a small “chapel” built into a cave in the mountain. I enjoyed the opportunity to hike and get some exercise, two of our party were pretty exhausted once we arrived. The chapel is simply a cave with a wooden wall and a light inside. The history there is that a famous monk from centuries ago used to pray and fast there for many years. His left leg fell off (amputed?) and so he is depicted in a painting there standing on 1 leg, with the other leg lying on the ground. Saint Terry Fox? Water is seeping from the roof of the cave, and this water is diverted into big drums as it is revered as holy water. There were 8 large drums in the cave and a hose filling one of them. Pilgrims will come from afar and pay good money in order to get this holy water, which they would use to apply to their faces or drink.

Personally I like drinking tonic water, they have 3 flavours/brands here and most places provide 2 or 3 brands.

Being here in Ethiopia is a treat, but not a treat in the way Canadians would think. Niamey does not have much of many nice things readily found in Addis Ababa, and so I feel spoiled. These things include: flush toilets and nice washrooms are common; people can understand English; there are bookstores with English books; there is often green grass growing on the ground and the soil is black; high of 25C in the day; you can find fresh brewed coffee in cafés; also cappuccinos, lattes, café au lait etc; the streets are not strewn with garbage (not as much); and a few others.

Shoulder bumping! Many cultures I notice have their unique ways of greeting friends and family, and Ethiopia most certainly is unique! Ethiopians on the whole are physically affectionate; people embrace and kiss each other if they are close friends or relatives. However the common greeting here is something quite unique – I supposed it is a more subtle or abbreviated form of physical contact. It involves bending your right shoulder towards the other person’s right shoulder and touch shoulders. This is often done while holding hands during the initial hand shake. So the right hands clasp for the hand shake and then you do the shoulder bump! You will not see this in Niger. In Niger you hold the person’s hand for a few minutes while going through a long series of greeting questions (not intended to be nosy) where you ask how is the health, then family, wife/husband, work, heat/cold, dust, tiredness, sickness, …

My flight back to Niamey was delayed by over 3 days! So I spent some extra time in Bamako.